A Wood in the Cairngorms

We purchased supplies in Aviemore.

I should have spoken to my companion then and voiced my concerns. My contribution to the fiasco was keeping quiet. I went to Tesco and bought a half bottle of whiskey. If I was to perish from exposure I would have an anaesthetic.

We drove ten miles outside Aviemore. I had made my telephone calls - there was no mobile phone reception in the hills and forests near the bothy. We parked the car and set off. My task on this occasion was to carry a saw for firewood.

Relations were strained . My companion had the right equipment and ruck sack for the hike. I didn't and fell behind. After a three and half mile hike we were deep in the woods. There was a river running to our right . My companion got tired of the hills and took a short cut down to the river. I followed keeping my eyes on my footing. When I finally reached the river I looked up and my companion was gone.

He could have taken three possible pathways . At first I was annoyed . I stayed where I was and waited 10 minutes or so for him to return. I thought I saw a figure in the distance but when I looked again it had disappeared.

My annoyance gave way to concern. I did not know where the bothy was and there was one hour of daylight left. I shouted out for him. He told me later that my shouts didn't carry and he was the figure in the distance. He had sat down for a cigarette.

I struck out for the car. Keeping the river to my left I was able to find my way back to the trail and walked back the way I came. I was angry but my companion could look out for himself. He knew the terrain. I made good time and was confident I would reach the car by dark. If my companion did not return to the car I would leave a note and walk back down the road. I had seen a sign for a youth hostel on our journey from Aviemore.

On my way back I saw something extraordinary. A stag reindeer came up from the river and stood blocking my path. It would have been 100 feet from where I stood. I stopped and stared at it. It stood looking at the writer. It was bigger than the deer in the picture.The stag had lost one antler and did not seem concerned by my presence.There was some fear - I had heard of a woman recently gored by a deer in Scotland. I stood waiting until it turned and retraced its steps back to the river

I reached the car. My phone reception had returned and I left a voicemail for my companion. As I set off for the youth hostel I heard him approaching. There was a frank angry exchange of words. When things had calmed we had the conversation we should have had ad initio. We had different expectations for the trip.

I would consider a bothy trip again but never in the winter. There is an elemental thrill unmatched by tourist fare. You have to be in the mood. On this occasion I did not want to play Grizzly Adams.

We returned to my car in Edinburgh. He kindly put me up for the night. In the morning I resumed my journey.